Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
